Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Strange Bedfellows

It just goes to show that "birds of a feather don't necessarily flock together"....OR this is one very confused fella!

One thing we are repeatedly reminded of on our travels is that the world is truly a gumbo. Variety is what makes it so fascinating and fun. There is a thriving, culturally rich heritage and people on the other side of the world from us that too many ignore or "write off" as irrelevant or insiginificant. Their loss.

"Road Blocks"

Mickey and I took a 40 km bike ride up in the mountains of Laos on the other side of the Mekong River, into the province and away from the town of Luang Prabang. We rode through Green Discovery and are apparently the oldest riders they have ever had. Doesn't that make us proud!
Our guide was a wonderfully attentive and intelligent young man named Tim. He is from a local Hill Tribe called Khamu. His English is quite good and he taught us a great deal. Tim is currently attending a local university and was a novice monk for years. His mother, who passed away at a very young age, encouraged him to leave home to get an education. Going to school with the monks is a common way for poor village children to get an education here, when they cannot otherwise afford it. He speaks at least four different languages and as we traveled he conversed with people from several different ethnic backgrounds or Hill Tribes. His goal is to teach to and practice sustainable agriculture with the ethnic Khamu. By attending the university, he also aspires to make his mother's dream come true.
As we climbed and descended the hills, visitng tribal villages on the way (we stopped at one village and ate a lunch comprised primarily of rich yellow mushrooms picked from high up on the mountain), we ran into several unusual "road blocks".
It was a beautiful, troubling, difficult, touching, and highly memorable ride.
Despite the many years Mickey has ridden, I think these were all a FIRST!
We were touched by the welcome calls of "Sabadee" to us all throughout the ride, from young children and elders; the older children were at school and most adults were in the city or fields working. It was heart breaking to see the poverty and filth in these villlages. Many of the children wore dirty t-shirts and tattered clothes; some were bottomless. It was apparent that they do not get a lot of visitors the likes of us and were fascinated by our presence and interest in them, as Tim translated.
Many of the Hill tribes of Laos have been displaced and relocated by the government. They have been deprived of their original livlihoods, land and are not even "recognized" by the goverment. That is truly a "road block"..

Monday, May 16, 2011

Woke up in Bangkok...Going to Sleep in Luang Prabang, Laos

Whew! Last leg of our adventure. Nine days here, then to Bangkok for one last night and then, homeward bound....But for now, soaking up the scenary and the "scene" here in Luang Prabang. It is a beautful and very laid back city of about 100,000. Lots of backpackers and young adults. Wonderful night market every night and shops with handmade crafts, paperwork and textiles. There are plenty of opportunities for "fair" trade minded excursions and artistry.
Because of the significant French influence, the city is very colonial in architecture and quite lovely with cobblestone and brick streets. It is the first we have seen of baguettes and crepes and pasties in a long while...Great fusion of Laos and Thai and Indian and French cooking.
Our room faces the mountains with a beautiful temple we will climb to see in the morning.
Also...great noises from the jungle to "put on our sleep machine"!

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Dorothy, we are not in Khoalok anymore!

We woke up in Khaolak and went to sleep in Bangkok last night.

What makes it different? (and not necessarily better)
For starters, 8 million people, literraly a sea of humanity! It is the size of Chicago in the city! Traffic jams, traffic lights, subway and sky train systems (Jeffrey, you would be so impressed), eating INSIDE a restaurant for dinner and with air conditioning, not worrying about getting bit by mosquitos, sushi, malls with Prada, Fendi, Hermes, Coach, hundreds of teens out on the streets partying, high rise condos and office buildings, helmuts, museums, movie theatres (going to a movie tonite and will stand up for the Thai National anthem), taxis with meters, Starbucks(yuck!)
But, no beach, no breeze from the sea, no pink cadillac, no swimmming pool...
Saw a long lost friend from law school. The world is so small. There are still smiles everywhere, though.

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Some of our Favorite Things...

On our last day in Khaolak we packed it all in, despite the brutally hot weather. (I continuously look like someone turned a water faucet on over my head...that is more than just a "glow"!)
I walked the beach first thing in the morning(and admittedly got teary)while Mickey wrote in his journal. We rode our bicycles (will miss my pink cadillac) to a special lunch spot on the beach and had one of our favorite lunches of Som Tam (Papaya Salad) with shrimp. We said goodbye (or "see you soon" to all, as both the Burmese and Thais generally refuse to say "goodbye"). I dont even think there is a word or literal translation for "goodbye" in either language. That night we were treated to an incredible sunset (ordered just for the occasion by Orowan), followed by an unforgetable dinner at the Ayara with gift exchanges. Mickey and I now own "offical" Phang Nga bathing wear (we did NOT wear the bathing wear to the dinner party, though)
We can't begin to share all the pictures of that day because so many are in our heads, not easily captured by a camera. This is truly a special place. We have been touched by kindness and new friendships, cuisine that we will never be able to duplicate, and memories to last a lifetime.
"See you soon...."

We did it... We broke the Ayara Villas Record for Longest and Best Stay Ever!

85 days at the Ayara Villas. It is the longest (and best) stay of ANY guest ever! We will miss our Ayara family who prepared a dinner for our last night fit for a king and queen. Thanks and much love.
Yes, that is shrimp (we had two types), crab and fish. It was finished off with hot banana fritters and vanilla ice cream. We almost stayed 85 more days!

Thursday, May 12, 2011

The Legacy Continues...

As we say good bye to all the dear friends we have made in Khaolak, the last order of business was who to entrust to my beloved pink cadillac. Alas, she will be in the good and capable hands of the Ayaran team captain. Thanks Orawon....with the promise to ride and take care of her and be the very FIRST participant in the Tourdelis Ride in 2012!
Lookin good....